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Hello, everyone, welcome. I’m so glad you’ve found your way to this podcast- this is Tea & Gemstones, and I am your host, Jennifer. This is a place for talking about anything and everything to do with jewelry, from pop culture, science, history, to art and design. This is the second episode in our series “A Casual History of Gold”. I suppose you can hop around and listen out of order, ha- you are the master of your own headphones after all; but if you missed our first episode, I suggest backtracking one episode down in the playlist and catching up, because that can help establish a good baseline of beginnings of the intersections of gold and mankind.


In our first episode we answered what you’d think would be simple questions… but it’s quickly obvious that anything to do with gold is never uncomplicated. The most basic question: “Where does gold come from?” requires us to both contemplate the origin birth stories of our universes’ stars and the geology of our home planet. We talked about how unique gold is, that is it a non-tarnishing metal that can be found whole and loose scattered around in nature, for anyone to pick up and find. Since before written history, humans have been picking up and finding the shiny nuggets and putting them to use- especially as jewelry and as objects that carried the highest amount of respect. But gold isn’t just a pretty face… it starts going to work, namely as currency… coins start showing up in 600 BC. And finally, we rounded out the episode by diving into the golden cultures of Ancient Egypt and Greece. Okay, that was your bullet point synopsis. For our second episode we are looking at gold as a motivator for what I call ‘dark exploration.’ That is, exploration that comes with a deadly price-tag. What happens when the lust for gold is so great, it drives one nation to nearly wipe others from history.


Throughout time, all across the world, gold has been considered the most precious and sacred of metals. We know this by seeing the amazing golden creations made in the past. We have gained so much historical information from the Egyptian gold artifacts beautifully preserved through the millennia. But what does it mean for history, for our ability to look back at once was, when a culture’s most valuable precious metal objects are not cherished and studied, but instead literally liquidated to become another culture’s economical asset? That’s the story of gold in the New World.


It is fascinating to me how cultures totally isolated from each other each revered gold in very similar ways. Across the oceans, a world away from the Mediterranean cultures were the peoples of South and Central America. Remember I said the Egyptians called gold “the skin of the gods?” The Incan civilization of what is now Peru called gold “the sweat of the sun.” The sun was their god, Viracocha, and gold was his physical blood and sweat on earth. The Incan Empire did not use money, they used an agriculturally based bartering and exchange system. The Incas would never dream of using gold, the personified blood of their deity, to buy a blanket or an animal. To the Incas, gold went beyond material value to a higher level; the craft of working gold was a religious ritual in itself. The Incan king or emperor was called, ‘the Sapa Inca’, or “the son of the sun.” Only the Sapa Inca was allowed to wear gold.


To the north of the Incas were the Aztecs. The Aztecs had an equally abundant gold supply as the Incas and they held the yellow metal in similar veneration. The word for gold in Nahuatl (naa-waa-tl), the dialect of the Aztecs, is ‘teocuitlatl’ (tee-ah-cue-it-lah), which means… ‘excrement of the gods.’ So we just about have a whole heavenly body covered with the gold terminology… Egypt calls it the skin, Incas the sweat and blood. And the Aztecs… the excrements. Similar to the Inca’s hierarchy, the Aztec emperor controlled all gold mines and goldsmith workshops. Gold was not used as currency (actually the Aztec used cacao seeds for money), but gold was only for personal adornment and to craft objects for funerary purposes- basically to make really, really fancy beautiful golden objects for people to be buried with, to show off their wealthy status in the afterlife. The Incas mined most of their gold, and the Aztecs mined a little, but the Aztec emperor mostly built up his royal treasury with a steady incoming stream of gold gifts as taxes and tribute from the numerous city-states all around the empire’s capital city of Tenochtitlan (tuh-no-cheet-lan).


For centuries, perhaps thousands of years, these empires existence had been unknown to anyone else in the world, even as the Spanish ventured closer and closer in the late 1400s to early 1500s. Gold and other precious resources were huge driving forces for European countries sending exhibitions across the Atlantic. Initially a fabled “northwest passage” for easier access to the spices of India is what drove men to sail towards unknown horizons. Now, I understand using the word ‘discover’ about the Americas is problematic. Obviously there had been Indigenous populations living in the European’s so called ‘New World’ for thousands of years before the first white man showed up. But, in the eyes of the Europeans the lands were quote unquote “new discoveries” to them. So I’ll use the word ‘discovered’ under those terms. So, the ‘discovery’ of the precious metals of the Central and South Americas were a powerful incentive. The country with the greatest lust for treasure was Spain. The fancy historian way to frame Spanish motivations for colonial expansion is to say the Spanish had goals of profit through resource extraction, expanding territory and to spread Christianity. Or you could say, “Gold, Glory, God.” On the topic of resource extraction… “Resource extraction” to put it bluntly, means put anything worth anything on a boat and send it back to Spain. This job was done by conquistadors, or ‘soldiers of fortune.’ Conquistadors were men who signed up for the risky expeditions, often having to provide their own armor and supplies. They gambled their lives for the promised outcome that the trip would culminate in vast wealth to spilt among all participants. The Spanish king and queen sent out boat after boat towards the Americas, starting with “in fourteen hundred and ninety-two, Columbus sailed the ocean blue”. And a lot of boats followed in the years after him. The first 25 years of Spanish involvement in the Americas consisted of them decimating the native population of several Caribbean islands through a deadly combo of disease, slavery and hard labor to farm sugar cane and mine the surface level gold deposits. But in 1519 a man named Hernan Cortes decided to take an expedition westward to the central American mainland, and the world’s view of gold would be forever changed.


Hernan Cortes was a successful Spanish New World settler. He had participated in the conquests of Hispaniola and Cuba and had been rewarded with a home on some land in Cuba. For 15 years he farmed, kept cattle and dabbled in local politics. He served as secretary for the Cuban Governor, Diego Velazquez, and had even served as mayor of the Cuban capital. In 1518 an expedition force out of Cuba had gone to the mainland of central America. They sent back word to Governor Velazquez that there was definitely gold with the natives here, but they didn’t have the manpower to conquer them, would the governor please send more men? Cortes jumped at the opportunity for “gold, glory” and I supposed God too, because he recruited a priest to come along. But mostly gold and glory, because he also signed up 500 men who definitely weren’t priests to go conquering with him. Now Cortes and the Governor didn’t really get along very well because Cortes had married the Governor’s sister-in-law and he notoriously wasn’t faithful to her. So right before Cortes was due to leave on his glorious mission, Governor Velazquez decided to put someone else in charge and ordered Cortes to stay put at home. Cortes heard this and disobeyed the order. Almost overnight, in February 1519, Cortes sped out of Cuba with 11 ships. When he landed in Veracruz, Mexico he and his men won a quick battle with the natives. Cortes then declared himself out of the service of Governor Velazquez of Cuba and that he would only answer to King Charles of Spain. Cortes claimed the land for the Spanish crown and then deliberately sank his ships so none of his men could retreat. It was gold and glory, or death.


The Aztec leader at this time was Emperor Montezuma II. He was politically savvy in his realm of the world, and when word reached him of conquistadors landing on his shores, he approached the situation strategically. Since the Aztecs believed gold to be a physical embodiment of their god- giving a golden object was a gift of the highest honor. Montezuma sent Aztec representatives to met Cortes with gifts of treasure. The thought was the Spanish would take the gifts as appeasement and leave. Poor Montezuma, this backfired. Basically, he showed Cortes, ‘look at all this gold we have, and we’re just handing some of it over!’ Cortes had sunk all eleven of his ships, he wasn’t going to leave now. He and his men marched on towards the Aztec capital. Along the way, Cortes actually gathered natives to his cause of bringing down the Emperor… the little city states all around the capital were tired of giving taxes and tributes (including human sacrifices, that doesn’t make a lot of friends) to Montezuma. Cortes and his indigenous allies march on Tenochtitlan, and Montezuma lets them peacefully enter the city. Historians believe the misguided Emperor still thought he could placate the strangers with enough gifts to entice them to leave, or he could keep them entertained long enough to figure out how to kill them. Unfortunately, Montezuma underestimated both his people’s technological disadvantages and the Spanish’s desire for gold. Cortes considered the Aztec’s initial gifts as the tip of a golden iceberg. He took Montezuma hostage in his own palace and had the Emperor give him all the information of the Aztec’s gold mines and stockpiles of treasures. Under Cortes’ instructions, Montezuma gave public speeches that the Spanish were here in the city under his willing invitation. For almost one hundred days Cortes, his men, and his allies lived off the people in the city and worked to gather all the Aztec gold for themselves.


But remember Governor Velazquez? Well, he is pissed. And he has sent a massive expedition of men after Cortes to arrest him for insubordination. Cortes is sitting pretty in luxury at Tenochtitlan with no real exit plan, but he decides he sure isn’t letting Velazquez get ahold of him or his claimed treasures. Cortes leaves the capital and goes to the coastline to meet the new expedition. Get this, Cortes fights Velazquez’s forces in a battle, wins, and then tells the losers, “hey- I’ve got a city of gold with a puppet ruler under my command, wanna join me and party?” And the losers are like, “absolutely!” So, Cortes marches back into the capital with more men than he left with. But unfortunately for Cortes, while he was away from the city dealing with the people trying to arrest him, the Aztecs got fed up of dealing with Montezuma, who clearly was under the control of the Spanish. The guy Cortes left in charge while he was gone ordered a bunch of Aztec nobles killed, thinking that would scare the Aztecs into submission, and it... well it didn’t. Cortes gets back into the city and discovers his men and Montezuma sieged up in a couple buildings and the Aztecs have elected a new emperor. Cortes is really annoyed by this, and he makes Montezuma go out on a balcony to give a rousing speech to the public to put them on his side… and the Aztec people apparently threw rocks and darts at Montezuma when he is on the balcony and he dies. Later the Aztecs say the Spanish killed him, the Spanish stick to the story the Aztecs kill him… but either way, Emperor Montezuma is dead. Cortes’ goal is now to escape with all the gold he’s been collecting for over three months from the Aztecs. He sends a message to the new Aztec leader asking for a one-week ceasefire and promising at the end of the week, the Spanish will give back all the gold and peacefully leave the city. Well, this is a lie. Cortes plans to leave the city that very night. Now, Tenochtitlan is an island city, with eight bridges connecting it to land. The Aztecs have damaged four of those bridges to prevent the Spanish from doing exactly what they’re trying to do- escape. So, this night that Cortes makes his escape, Spanish history calls it, “La Noche Triste”, or “the night of sorrows”, literally “the sad night.” That should give you a big ol’ clue as to how well their escape is going to go. Spoiler alert- poorly. Cortes and his men tried to build a portable bridge to get off the island city, they are spotted early in their escape, and the Aztecs, rightly thinking Cortes was gonna try and flee, had hundred of armed canoes waiting all around. Because Cortes had insisted on trying to take as much gold as possible, and yall- gold is heavy… a lot of men and all the horses drowned, they fell in the water and they were weighed down by how much treasure they had strapped to themselves, they drowned.


Cortes somehow escaped alive, he made it out with a handful of men. Almost no gold treasure made it out with them, the whole purpose of the expedition. Records are mixed, but about 450 Spanish died and about 4,000 natives. That’s why Spanish historians call the escape La Noche Triste for the quote, loss of great life and great treasure, unquote. And unfortunately for the Aztecs, they were in for a lot more than one bad night- Cortes regrouped his forces, received reinforcements from Cuba and returned to conquer Tenochtitlan (tuh-no-cheet-lan) in 1521. He claimed the city for Spain and renamed the capital, Mexico City. But there are still legends of the lost gold in the water, the plunder of the great Aztec empire that has never been found.


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The Aztec Empire showed the Spanish a realized world of golden treasure previously confined to fantasy. Once they had seen the abundance of precious metals a native population could possess, they sought out more New World conquests. Difficult terrain of tropical jungles, high mountains, rough seas, strange diseases, hostile natives, lack of food and medicine supplies did not deter the ‘soldiers of fortune.’ There is no motivator quite like gold.


When Spanish forces led by conquistador Francisco Pizarro landed on the coast of Ecuador in 1531, they were entering a weakened Inca Empire consumed with inner turmoil. Remember the ruler of the Inca’s is called the Sapa Inca? Well, five years before Pizarro arrives, the Sapa Inca Huayna (whyna) Capac had contracted smallpox. Smallpox is a wicked viral disease Europeans had introduced to the continent, and it ravaged the indigenous people who had no immunity. And Sapa Inca Huayna died, and so did his eldest son. Now the Incas didn’t have a clear line of succession laid out. This seems like a big oversight to their political system, but unfortunately, that’s the way it was. Huayna had multiple wives, and one of his marriages was actually to his sister, in order to maintain a ‘pure’ royal bloodline. This type of royal inbreeding was very common in Europe, ironically the Spanish royal family participated in these types of unions the most. Huayna and his sister wife had a son named Huascar. (wazcarr). Huascar was technically the next oldest child of the Sapa Inca, had the ‘purest’ blood, and he was physically in the Inca’s capital city, Cuzo, when his father died. So Sapa Inca Huayna dies, and Huascar declares himself the new Sapa Inca. But Huascar has a… popularity problem. His problem is… no one likes him. He is described as being “ill-tempered, overall suspicious and disrespectful of the law.” “Disrespectful of the law”… meaning Huascar had a bad habit of taking things that didn’t belong to him. Historical records show he liked to claim other people’s family land after someone died, and other men’s wives for his playthings… while the husbands were still very much around to protest. So, Huascar the unliked is in the capital city and he declares he is the new head guy in charge of the Inca Empire. But Huascar has another problem besides not being anyone’s miss congeniality… his younger brother, Atahualpa (aa-tuh-hoo-al-puh).


Atahualpa’s mother was a woman from outside the conventional ‘royal line,’ so he did not have as solid a claim to the throne as Huascar. But Atahualpa was young, handsome, and really well liked by the general public and especially the Incan military, who Atahualpa served with. Historical records state Atahualpa was a man of “cunning and early wisdom.” Lots of Incas wanted Atahualpa to be king instead of Huascar. To Atahualpa’s credit, when his big brother declared himself Sapa Inca, Atahualpa was okay with it. When his father died, Atahualpa was in north Peru with the army, nowhere near the capital city of Cuzco. He gathered up a sizable offering of gold and silver objects – remember, the Incas believed gold was the physical manifestation of their god’s blood and sweat on Earth, so this was a precious gift to give. Atahualpa sent his gift with some messengers to Huascar to be like “congratulations, bro.” Huascar met this gift visit with great suspicion. He declared his younger brother to be a bastard in open rebellion. He then thought it would be a great idea to kill half of Atahualpa’s messengers. And then records state, he had the remaining half dress up as women and march back in shame to order Atahualpa to come surrender to Huascar in person.


Well then. Atahualpa did not like that Huascar had killed half his friends and shamed the others. He basically decided, “okay, you think I’m in rebellion to you, then I really WILL be in rebellion.” Atahualpa prompted declared a new capital city, that he was the real Sapa Inca, and anyone who didn’t like Huascar could come support him. And that was a lot of people. A bunch of high-ranking generals deserted Cuzco and went to Atahualpa’s new capital. Huascar’s suspicions were now made reality, by his own actions, though he probably didn’t see it that way. And for the next five years, the Inca Empire is torn apart from the inside by a terrible civil war between the two brothers. There are some crazy stories from this war, and I could see HBO making a mini-series out of it. At one point Huascar captures Atahualpa and then when he and his men get drunk to celebrate, a prostitute sneaks into camp and sets Atahualpa free and he escapes. Atahualpa kills Huascar’s best friend and turns his skull into a gold covered drinking cup… we know this because four years after he did it, when Atahualpa encounters the Spanish, he is still using his favorite skull cup. Talk about a creative use for gold.


The Inca Civil War between the brothers reached a conclusion almost simultaneously as the Spanish made their arrival. The Spanish were led by a man named Francisco Pizarro. Francisco had been born to a dirt-poor family in Spain. He started out in life trying to be a farmer like his father. But when he was 36, he decided going adventuring to the New World sounded like much more fun, and he signed up to be a settler in South America. He was a part of a few different colonies, he actually went with a sailing expedition that ended up discovering the Pacific Ocean for Spain. Pizarro, like Cortes, became a mayor, Pizarro was in charge of a town in Panama, and he got pretty rich being the mayor. But he wanted adventure and he wanted to make discoveries. He used his own money to fund an expedition into Peru. Disease and hardships forced the expedition back to Panama without much material success to show for it… however, from this first trip, Pizarro had heard legends of a king in the mountains, surrounded by gold. Pizarro scraped together all the money he had left and tried to get into Peru a second time… no dice, men dying of disease, had to go back. Pizarro wouldn’t give up. He had a vision of the possible treasure, and he would risk anything to get it. Pizarro sent a letter to the king of Spain asking if he could “pretty please go and try and conquer the mysterious golden king in the name of Spain.” And the Spanish king said “okay, I’ll help.” So, Pizarro gets a third try. He lands on the coast in 1531. He begins proceeding inland and is shocked at the destruction of cities and the devastation among the Inca people. Through interpreters, Pizarro finds out about the long running civil war between the brothers and the smallpox epidemic ravaging the Empire. But the war has just ended! Atahualpa’s generals have captured Huascar in the capital of Cuzco just recently, and Atahualpa is celebrating and resting in a nearby town with a hot spring, a town named Cajamarca (kaa-huh-maar-kuh). Pizarro decided to head to meet the new Sapa Inca Atahualpa. Atahualpa’s scouts reported to him the 168 strange men in silver armor on horses marching his way, but Atahualpa did not consider the Spanish a threat to him, he was feeling on top of the world, he had just ended a five-year civil war with his brother, he was the Sapa Inca! Let them come! Not a great idea.


Pizarro and his men arrive unhindered at Cajamarca, and they ask for a meeting with Atahualpa. They say, “hey Sapa Inca, come into this little area of town where we are, and let’s hang out.” Now, the Spanish wrote down everything from their expeditions, so we have some primary documents for what happens next. Apparently, Atahualpa put on a great big spectacle of a display- he had the entire road covered with flower petals, and he arrived on a huge portable throne carried by 80 men. He had four other high-ranking lords carried in hammocks march behind him and he had 5,000 soldiers parading in the rear. Spanish records note the abundance of alcohol among the Incas and they point out that Atahualpa in particular was super drunk. But he was celebrating, the war was over and he had been surprised by the Spanish while on his first vacation in half a decade. We know from how Atahualpa fought in the civil war that he was a smart military man, maybe if he hadn’t been drunk and cocky he would have suspected a trap. Because he parades his posse into the Spanish part of the little town for the meeting… and there’s no one there. Not a person to be found. Picture a tumbleweed rolling across an empty street. Atahualpa is standing there, all dressed up, drunk, and confused. Then this little priest comes out of a building, a man named Friar Vincente, and he has an interpreter with him. Friar Vincente starts explaining Catholicism and then he hands Atahualpa a Bible and asks him if he will surrender to King Charles of Spain. Spanish records record Atahualpa saying, “I will be no man’s tributary.” And dropping the Bible onto the ground. Pizarro responds with a cannon shot and all the Spanish conquistadors springing the ambush. They launch their surprise assault, and it is devastating. The Spanish record 1,000 Incas killed, and one Spanish man wounded. Wounded, not dead, just wounded. It’s a massacre.


Pizarro takes Atahualpa hostage and uses him as leverage to prevent the Incas from counterattacking. A counterattack wasn’t really a threat, the Incas were so freaked out by the Spanish’s technological superiority, and they were weak from disease and the civil war. While the Incas scrambled to figure out what to do next, Atahualpa had sobered up and was scheming. He was being held prisoner in a little two room house. Atahualpa suggested to Pizarro that he buy his freedom. Atahualpa claimed he could fill the entire main room of the house with gold, and he could fill the smaller room twice over with silver, if Pizarro would give him two months. Well now. Pizarro had come to Peru looking for treasure and now the captured king was offering to deliver it to him? Okay! Poor Atahualpa seemed to think along the same lines as Montezuma of the Aztecs; gold and silver were the most revered and sacred objects, surely gifts of precious metals would entice the Spanish to leave. The Incas did not know of the sad fate of the Aztecs ten years earlier, they didn’t know this was a flawed strategy. But Atahualpa came through with his offer, the gold and silver flowed out of Cuzco and Incan temples to the little house. And get this, the so-called “Ransom Room” is still standing in Cajamarca, you can go and see it today. It’s main room is 22 feet long and 17 feet wide and 9 feet high. The collected gold and silver was melted down into standard ingots. The Spanish kept detailed records, so we can adjust the monetary value to modern times… Atahualpa gave the Spanish half a billion dollars in gold and silver.


Gold meant more than anything else to the Incas; they used it to craft their religious idols, decorate temples, palaces, they created beautiful commemorative plates to celebrate victories in battle or wonderful harvests. Some of Atahualpa’s ransom items survived intact, they were actually deemed too beautiful to melt down and were sent to the Spanish king. Some of those items included solid gold models of plants, animals and an entire functional water fountain, all gold. This enormous king’s ransom was all for naught, once the gold and silver were fully collected, Atahualpa was like, “hey- so I get to leave in peace now, right?” And the Spanish were spilt on this issue. Some of them wanted to keep Atahualpa alive as a puppet ruler, like how they tried to do with Montezuma in Mexico. However, while Atahualpa had been kept hostage, he had secretly passed along orders for his brother- held prisoner himself in a different city by Atahualpa’s loyalists- he ordered his brother killed. The Spanish found out about this and called it an assassination and used that charge and a bunch of other “crimes” that were really just cultural differences, like having multiple wives and worshiping idols- to hold a mock trial and issue a guilty verdict. I consider it that the Spanish basically made “being an Inca king” a crime punishable by death. Atahualpa was killed by the Spanish in 1533, almost a year after being taken hostage in the ambush at Cajamarca.


Pizarro went on with his conquest and colonizing of Peru. He went to the fallen Inca Empire’s capital city of Cuzco right after having Atahualpa killed. In Cuzco we have records of the Spanish discovered 12 “extraordinarily realistic” life sized soldiers made of solid gold and silver decorating the capital. A solid gold disc the size of a wagon wheel inscribed with tributes to the sun god was pulled from a temple. There is also record of a beautiful sculpture of a woman made of solid gold with silver hair. Multiple life-size solid silver llamas were found. These artistic masterworks were melted down into ingots and sent back to Spain. After removing the city’s treasures, Pizarro decided Cuzco was not suited to be the capital of the new Spanish colony, so Pizarro founded the city of Lima… which is still the capital of Peru today. The Spanish king made Pizarro governor of all of Peru and Pizarro focused his attention on putting the native population to work, particularly in the gold and silver mines. From time of conquest until 1650, the Spanish took approximately 181 tons of gold and 16,000 tons of silver from the New World. That’s a total value of 11 billion dollars in today’s money. Spanish had an unexpected consequence attached to their new stolen prosperity. The influx of precious metals actually wreaked havoc on the European economy. While Spain steadily imported it’s ill-gotten wealth, prices in Europe rose 500% in about one hundred years.


*music*


The value of what was lost from the indigenous populations of Central and South America cannot just be measured in dollars and percentages. The Aztecs and Inca both revered gold as something truly not of this earth- it was the physical manifestation of their god. Historically, mankind has created it’s most spectacular and meaningful works of art in tribute and inspiration to religion. Think of all the bronze sculptures of angels, Jesus, the virgin Mary. Michelangelo’s sculpture of David, though in marble, not metal. What did the master artisans of the New World craft from their gold and silver, their god’s sweat, blood, and well… for the Aztecs, excrement. It is the cultural and historical loss than cuts the deepest. Almost all of the New World precious metals were melted down into uniform ingots that could be measured and counted. Almost all. Some pieces did survive intact- they were recognized by the Spanish as too beautiful to be destroyed and sent back to the Spanish king. Now, in modern times, some of those golden treasures have found their way back to the homeland. Museo Oro del Peru y Armas del Mundo- the Gold Museum of Peru and Arms of the World was founded in Lima in 1968. If you buy a ticket costing about 8 dollars, you can go in and see over 4,200 Peruvian artifacts, including a pair of gold gloves, a section of a solid gold wall, and a life accurate poseable gold sculpture of a weasel, of all creatures. The museum contains what seems to be a drop of water compared to the ocean in scale of how many gold artifacts the Incans made. Just a precious few survived the Spanish conquest. I guess I would say, it is better than nothing… but to see what once was and wondering what all there could have been, I have to wonder if the gold would not rather have remained in its original created form from all those centuries ago, rather than journey across the ocean into foreign king’s coffers. But gold lust comes with a price, some economists trace present-day Spain’s financial troubles as originating with the country’s new world empire and the massive amounts of gold and silver that came with it.



How far would you go for gold and glory? Across a vast ocean into an unknown land? Face down disease and isolation while wrecking military havoc on indigenous peoples? Plenty of conquistadors said, “yes, sign me up!” They thought the ends justified their means. Gold had that strong a pull for them. Maybe I am oversimplifying the Spanish’s motivations… but haha- I don’t think so. Gold, glory, God. And when historians mention that phrase… gold is always first. It was primary. I believe I can make the declarative statement that because of gold, the continents of North and South America were explored and colonized by the European powers, leading to the countries and cultures we have today. Gold directly incentivized the rapid development of modern economies on two continents, although at a truly staggering human cost of both life and cultural history.


*music*


That’s all for this episode of Tea and Gemstones. We have made some amazing progress exploring this series, “A Casual History of Gold.” Check out Tea & Gemstones on Instagram and let me know what you’re liking… or disliking… about the series so far. Please see the episode notes for a link to Tea and Gemstones’ website which will have a transcript of this episode and the master bibliography for this series. Our theme song is by Joseph McDade. This series “A Casual History of Gold” will continue next time when we talk about how far humans will go for gold… not far in terms of distance, but far into the depths of science, magic, and mystery. Mankind’s quest to create gold leads to mysticism, discovery and death. I hope I have piqued your interest and you’ll tune in. I have been your host, Jennifer. Until next time, Stay Sparkly.

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Welcome, welcome everyone

… come on in. Thanks for joining me for another episode of “Tea & Gemstones.” This is your home for a shiny mix of social commentary and fun history of all things sparkly. This is a place to gush – and critique- modern red carpets, and design trends, learn the science behind a gemstone, revel in the history of famous masterworks of jewelry, indulge in the drama of royal treasuries or the thrill of a jewelry heist, and so much more. Anything and everything involving jewelry is welcome here. And as always, I am your host, Jen.



*intro music fades*


I have a toddler who asks a million questions. As a parent, you fall into this pattern of being asked a random question and then trying to explain an answer. I became familiar with the process of trying- not to “dumb down”- but to simplify lots of information into engaging, informative, educational content. Hey- if I can keep a four-year-old listening and learning then I am succeeding. Being in the presence of my child’s constant appetite for knowledge awoke me to the stagnation of my own brain, if I’m being honest. Raising a newborn, up to like… about three and a half, I was just totally dazed. It takes every bit of energy and focus to just live basic life, I wasn’t dabbling in mental extracurriculars. But now she’s older, and I have remembered: I like to learn too! Finding answers to my daughter’s questions stirred alive my own thirst for well, explai


ning… teaching. I like to call it “productive talking.” We all know what really specific topics makes a person in our lives light up- they just love talking about their favorite niche subject; airplanes, stock options, interior design, gardening- even if the subject isn’t your own bee’s knees, it is just fun sometimes to talk and listen to people passionately explain what they care about. That’s what has happened with this next subject for me. Once I started working on this topic, it sprawled out so big, this has actually turned into Tea and Gemstones first ever series. I’m calling it, “A Casual History of Gold.” Which is kind of an oxymoron, because the entire history of gold is a huge, big thing… but c’mon… Imma keep it casual. So, I hope “A Casual History of Gold” feels like I am your nerdy casual historian friend who has a lifelong magpie affinity


for shiny things, and I’ve set up in your living room with a glass of wine to ramble excitedly about gold. I hope it’s fun, I hope you learn, and I sincerely hope it sparks you to ask and answer your own random questions. Okay… This is part one, let’s kick it off.


Let’s play a word association game. I’ll say a common phrase- and you see what word your brain automatically fills into the blank.


“Baby, you’re good as ­­ ------_”

“All that glitters is not ____”

“You’re worth your weight in ____”

“C’mon team, let’s go for the ----”


Okay, is your mind filled with thoughts of… gold?? Then you’re among the company of about all mankind. Humans have been obsessed with gold since the beginning of recorded history, and I’m guessing a good way back before then too. Humans first discovered gold over 30,000 years ago. I mean, gold has been found on every continent of the earth except Antarctica. And the


shiny yellow stuff has been a permanent focus of our personal stories, treasures, economies, royalty, and religions.


So here we go: W


e are following a golden thread through history. Gold has been connected to the history of mankind since before history was ever written down. It motivated wars, justified conquests, spurred exploration, facilitated commerce, inspired artistic masterpieces, invoked religious reverence, and yielded scientific discoveries. And of course, became the most enduring, iconic form of jewelry of all time.


Well, we have laid out a broad, vast scope, haven’t we? Did you ever consider gold to be so tied to history? I think for a lot of people whenever the topic of gold comes up, their mind goes to money. But if you thought gold was mostly a topic for like, stocks and bonds, investments and money market talk, a report in 2011 stated that actually 50% of all new gold pulled from the Earth is


used in jewelry. A nice big fun number from a different report is: two hundred and one thousand two hundred and ninety-six tons… that’s the consensus of how much gold exists “above ground” as of 2020. In the last ten years, 25,800 tons of that above ground gold went to jewelry. But using gold in jewelry is not a modern trend. Guess what? Over 3,000 years ago in Ancient Egypt the first archeological discovery of man using gold, was gold jewelry.


*Transition music*


I think we have to


back up in our history of gold. Back waaaaay up. We’re talking about gold being above ground, below ground, hanging in chains around our necks, sitting as rings on our fingers, coins in our pockets… but I’m getting ahead of myself. Hey, where in fact did Earth’s tons of gold really come from? What is gold’s very beginning, before it’s on the stock market, in a jewelry box, waiting to be discovered in a California riverbed? Where is gold born? Well, on a clear dark evening, you can go outside and look upwards, to gaze upon the star mothers who can birth gold into creation… Yeah, this isn’t me trying to spin together a silly metaphor, gold… guys, it came from *space*.


Yall ready to get science-y? This is gonna get deliciously science-y. Gold knew how to make an entrance. There really is no more explosive way to come into existence than via ‘supernova nucleosynthesis’. Supernova nucleosynthesis is when a huge star, one in a size category ten times bigger than our Sun- that huge star explodes. But before they explode outwards, they star


t self-destructing at the center with what scientists call “an internal shockwave” massive progressive destruction from the core outwards, with the star falling apart like an evil villain’s fortress at the end of a Marvel movie. During the internal melting and collapsing, new elements are synthesized (that means created) from all the raw materials mixing in the guts of the dying star. Then, the star explodes and all those new elements, --like gold, are sent on the ultimate express mail service, distributed all across the literal universe. So that’s one space theory about the birth of gold, a star melts down internally and explodes outwards.



A second theory is called a “neutron star merger”, when giant stars actually crash into each other and mix together, and gold and a bunch of other heavy elements are created. In August 2017, scientists actually witnessed this phenomenon. The Astrophysical Journal published a report detailing stars three times larger than our sun, colliding and smashing into each other a mere 85 to 160 million light years away. Scientists ran models of the collision and released data that they believe the neutron star merger yielded quote, “between 3 and 13 earth masses of gold.” End quote. An earth mass means equals to the entire weight of the planet earth. So…. I’m picturing huge, massive planets of solid gold exploding into existence and somehow that idea is not that u


nrealistic. Man, I love science.


So, whether it is via ‘supernova nucleosynthesis’ or a ‘neutron star merger’, the answer to “where does gold come from?” is…. Outer Space haha! And scientists believe, way way waayyyy back when our home planet was literally putting itself together, a huge meteorite, loaded with freshly born gold from a supernova or a star merger, crashed into the still melty, mushy, in process of being formed planet Earth’s core. It was like the universe planted a seed in the ground, the Earth had been given an interplanetary direct deposit of gold into the center of itself. Some scientists believe the gold in Earth’s core has been pushed upwards into the mantle and crust over billions of years. Other scientists believe a hypothesis that most of the gold we humans h


ave mined and found was delivered into the shallower top of the formed Earth about 4 billion years ago, during a time called the Late Heavy Bombardment. The Late Heavy Bombardment is a name given to a period where the Earth was supposedly pummeled with about twenty-two thousand asteroids, seeding the earth’s surface with all the world’s gold supply. The Late Heavy Bombardment is a theory that faces a lot of criticism for a bunch of really specific geological reasons, but without getting too much off focus… our takeaway point is… gold is born in space, and somehow, and some point in the past, gold was delivered to Earth via meteorite.



Alright. The Earth is golden, baby. So, who had the honor of discovering the precious stuff?


The earliest recorded metal used by humans is gold. Experts in fossil study have found bits of whole natural gold on Spanish cave floors dating back over 40,000 years ago to the Paleolithic time. Historical sources can’t agree on the actual uses of the ancient gold, but those cavemen had themselves some bling. The cavemen were able to have gold because gold is unique in that it can be found free, or “native”. That means gold can exist in its pure metallic form in nature- like whole gold nuggets in a riverbed. Only gold, silver, copper, and platinum occur native in large amounts because they are the only metals that can resist natural weathering l


ike oxidation. Native metals were prehistoric man’s only access to metal, until the process of smelting didn’t come onto the scene till a few thousand years later. Smelting is when you super heat up ore, the host rock holding the metal- to get the metal out. But gold can be found on its own- and in Ancient Egypt, it was abundant.


Like I mentioned before, we have archeological artifacts of gold jewelry dating back to 3000 BC. Egypt gave us o


ur first recorded gold map. Spoiler alert- everywhere. Ancient Egypt had gold…. Evvverywhere. Egyptian hieroglyphs from 2600 B.C record an Egyptian pharaoh (that’s what they called their kings) claiming gold was “more plentiful than dirt.” We all know what Egypt’s physical landscape is like… it is A LOT of sand and dirt. And apparently also gold. Abundantly gold. Egyptians believed gold was the flesh of their sun god, Ra. They actually called the metal, “the skin of the gods.” Because of gold’s revered status, initially only pharaohs were allowed to wear it. It was considered state property. But as time went on over the centuries, there was so much gold the pharaohs decided it wouldn’t hurt to spread it around. Next priests were allowed to wear it and eventually, the general population. If you had the money, you got t


o have gold. As Egyptian civilization progressed through the ages, we see the abundant resource of gold permeate all of society.


It isn’t hard to see why ancient people fell in love with gold. Gold as a material is easy to love. Gold is very malleable, which means it can be bent, hammered, pressed and molded without breaking or cracking,


making it perfect for any shape. If you just keep hammering gold, it will get thinner and thinner and thinner… gold leaf can go as thin as one micron. One amazing example of gold leaf from ancient Egypt was found in a tomb of an Egyptian noble named Hapiankhtifi (hay-peh-in-ti-fi). His mummy wore an elaborate broad collar necklace across his whole chest. The collar was carved from wood as a base, but the entire swooping curve was covered in the thinnest of thin gold leaf, etched with a tiny grid pattern. Egyptian goldsmiths would adhere the gold leaf to the wood with a plaster gum mix made from plants. If you can think it, dream it, imagine it, then the ancient Egyptians probably made it out of gold. We have artifacts of statues, vases, beads, all forms of jewelry, bowls, cups and plates, hair ornaments… Egypt had so much gold, they even used it to make doors, floors and pillars in their palaces and temples.




We have so many amazing pieces of gold from the ancient Egyptians because of their funerary habits… namely, they buried people with their best stuff, like the nobleman with his fancy collar necklace I just mentioned. They believed whatever went into your grave with you would be transported to your personal afterlife. So, take your favorite bling, you’ll get to use it for eternity. But the treasure Egyptians put inside tombs went far, far up the grandeur scale than a necklace. Because while sort of ‘regular’ people- their graves would yield some jewelry, a trinket, maybe a religious ornament… but the real jackpots, the real jackpots were the tombs of the pharaohs.


The centuries long, on-going quest for ancient Egyptian treasures is full of interesting characters. The motivation of gold and treasure brings the most interesting people into documented history. The first archeological hunt for treasure – not just grave robbing- kicked off in 1798 when Napoleon Bonaparte brought not only 35,000 soldiers, but also 160 artists and scientists to Egypt. Napoleon was there to quote “protect French trade interests” aka- he wanted to harass the heck out of the British in India and he brought the nerds along for good propaganda- like “look I’m not actually sort of conquering; we’re exploring for science and history!” And even though his goals really were military minded, he did let the explorers do their thing. And they made lots of discoveries, including the Rosetta Stone in 1799, which allowed for the translation of Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. But in 1801 the British made Napoleon stop messing around and kicked him and all his forces out of Egypt and they took the Rosetta Stone. It


’s been on display in the British Museum from 1802 until present day. But besides the revolutionary Rosetta Stone, Napoleon’s “nerds” within their first year had discovered 16 tombs, though they were devoid of golden goods and their original mummified owners long since stolen. After these first discoveries, the 1800s really kicked off European’s Egyptian treasure hunting obsession. I mean- A new profession developed, you could go become an Egyptologist; a job description combining being an archaeologist, historian and linguist engaged in the study of ancient Egypt and it’s antiquities. But if you were an Egyptologist, basically an academic treasure hunter, you wanted to put your feet to sand and go exploring. Think of the technology of this time frame, the risks, the diseases there are no vaccines for… the crocodiles and hippos of the Nile alone would give me pause. So, the type of person who feels the pull of undiscovered gold- looking at the circumstances of how to even start to find it- and decides, “yeah, I can deal with that, all the risks and uncertainty is worth the possible reward” that type of explorer person is so interesting to me. There’s Giovanni Belzoni, a 6-foot 8-inch former traveling circus strongman who even when he was exploring in Egypt still introduced himself by his circus stage name, “the great Belzoni.” Belzoni famously transported huge statutes that stumped other’s attempts and he discovered the tomb of Ramesses I in 1817 and was first to get into one of the pyramids of Giza. Belzoni had to keep looking over his shoulder though, he had a hostile rival named Bernardino Drovetti. Drovetti was a notorious Italian antiquities collector suspected of sabotaging and stealing from other’s


endeavors. There was also a man named Colonel Howard Vyse. He was born in England in 1784. He served in the military for a while… hence the “colonel” title and tried his hand at being a politician, but he got in trouble for buying all his votes. So, he decided to go to Egypt in 1835 and he started what the records state is “gunpowder archaeology.” Basically, he blew up ancient monuments looking for treasure. He used boring rods to drill 27 feet deep into side of the Great Sphinx, inserted dynamite and blew off huge chunks looking for a burial treasure chamber. He also blew up the sides of a couple pyramids before running out of money and going back home to his nine children. Without the lure of gold and treasure, w


ould men like the great Belzoni be recorded in our history books?


So yeah, the people responding to the call of treasure could be a little… colorful. And the first 130 years or so of Egyptian treasure hunting had yielded some insights into the treasures possible. But every tomb found had long ago been ransacked and robbed. So truly, we did not know the capacity to which the pharaohs adored and utilized gold until the discovery of a guy I think you’ve all heard of… King Tut.


King Tut was found because of the dogged determination of a guy named Howard Carter. He was a British arc


haeologist and Egyptologist born in 1874. He was the youngest of eleven children and from an early age he displayed a talent for painting and drawing. When he was only 17, he was hired to go to Egypt and document tomb decorations. Carter fell in love with Egypt and obsessed with the idea of finding lost tombs. In 1907, Carter was hired by a wealthy British aristocrat named Lord Carnarvon. Carnarvon was an amateur Egyptologist who had a lot of old school family wealth, and he used that money to buy dig permits and fund treasure hunts. For five years, Lord Carnarvon paid all the bills and Carter dug all over the Valley of the Kings… but they didn’t find anything. The Lord was about to pull the plug when in 1922, one of the water boys on Carter’s team discovered a stone step in the sand. And viola- history was made.


King Tut’s tomb was unique because it was discovered intact and previously undisturbed. All other royal tombs found in Egypt had long ago been ransacked by robbers. But King Tut’s tomb held all it’s golden treasures safe inside, including a gold chariot, gold chair, jewelry and an inner coffin ma


de of solid gold. One of the chambers of his tomb was guarded by two life-sized golden statues of the pharaoh. King Tut himself wore into death a spectacular solid gold death mask with lapis lazuli detail. That death mask was made of 22 pounds of gold. A classic women’s gold wedding band is about 5 grams of gold, so you could make about 2,000 rings out of King Tut’s mask. The exotic discovery of King Tut’s tomb triggered a period of jewelry design historians call “Egyptian Revival” where jewelry houses such as Tiffany & Co, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels created whole collections in gold and gemstones based on Egyptian antiquity, proving the golden designs from thousands of years ago can inspire modern gold creations.




It is fascinating to me that when King Tut’s tomb was first discovered, everyone was like “look at the insane, amazing wealth of the ancient pharaohs!” Which is absolutely true, yes. But! But without any other intact unrobbed tombs to compare King Tut too, historians now believe Tut’s tomb and it’s golden contents were small town scale compared to what a pharaoh’s tomb could be. Look at the physical space of the tomb. Tut’s is a few small rooms, cut into rock. Egyptologists believe this tomb was actually intended for a lesser lord or noble, not the pharaoh god on earth. But when King Tut died unexpectedly so young, this small tomb was the only place ready at the time. Look at the sheer massive scale of the Great Pyramids. Those three enormous triangles are tombs for pharaohs. Imagine what gold artifacts were buried in those tombs. So yes, not to diminish the amazing-ness of King Tut’s swag; but I mentally drool over the unrealized possibilities of the scale of treasures we will never get to see. Unless there’s a new discovery of an intact tomb. Wouldn’t that be awesome? It would be lovely just for the sake of comparison… yes… that’s why I want see more masterworks of ancient Egyptian gold… for you know… the data haha


So, King Tut’s tomb yielded the information of all the objects Egyptians could create in gold. But, with the revered status of gold, the skin of the gods, in ancient Egypt, they did not use gold as money- th


ey actually used barley and other agricultural goods as currency. The first known use of gold in coin form was in 600 BC in Lydia, Asia Minor, which is present-day Turkey. The world’s oldest gold coin is called a “Lydia Lion” because, well, it is stamped with a roaring lion impression on one side of it. It’s 4.7 grams and is actually a gold and silver alloy called “electrum.” Electrum can occur naturally, and it did in large amounts in the Kingdom of Lydia. Electrum would have been a better material for coins than solid gold because solid gold is really soft. But why did the Lydians become the first people to use coins anyway? Well, the Kingdom of Lydi


a was a big-time hub for transcontinental trade with coastline on the Black, Aegean and Mediterranean seas. Trade from Africa, the Middle East and present-day Europe all passed through Lydia. Before coins were on the scene, raw metal bullion or other goods were bartered for trade. A bartering system is trading different objects, so it’s totally up to whatever a person just *feels* their item is worth. What if people couldn’t agree that their goat should get them a case of wheat or the value of their silk cloth trading for some medicine? By creating coins of uniform value, the Lydians sped up and streamlined transactions. And


one of their main trading partners took notice of the efficiency… the Greeks. They took the idea of coins and ran with it. There were over 2,000 self-governing city states in the Greek world, and over half of them started making their own coins. Some of the coins were made from electrum, like the Lydians, but almost all of them were silver because the Greeks had massive amounts of silver deposits on their territory. All coins of this time period were handmade. The coin designs were carved into dies, and then a blank disc of metal was placed between the dies. The coin maker would then strike the top die with a hammer, creating the coin with impressions on both sides. The Greek coins were renowned for their tight standard of purity and weight, making them very popular and easily incorporated into use all over the w


orld.


The Greeks gold wasn’t limited just to coins shuffling around a marketplace. Gold was also the victorious spoils of war and conquest. Let’s look at Alexander the Great. When you think of Alexander the Great, please don’t use Colin Farrell’s wishy-washy weak portrayal of the Greek king in that awful 2004 movie- that movie got 16% on Rotten Tomatoes and even that is too kind. Alexander the Great was fully a badass; he became king at the ripe old age of 20 after his father was ass


assinated and for the next decade Alexander went a’ conquering and he put together one of the largest empires ever- stretching from Greece to the far edge of India. In 333 B.C. he defeats the Persians- picture the bad guys from the movie “300”, now that extravagance of gold on a movie screen is a little closer to accurate. So- when Alexander defeats Persia, he declares that he wants all the gold in Persia. I repeat… all. The. Gold. In Persia. It takes 20,000 mules and 5,000 camels to haul all the gold back to Greece. And Alexander certainly didn’t stop at Persia, he also conquered Egypt – remember, they have tons of gold as well- and Babylon and India, all places rolling in the goods. Greece is absolutely flush with gold. It’s a huge boost to their coin system and therefore the world. Okay- interesting side note about gold with Mr. Alexander the Great. When he died at the age of 32, his body was laid into a gold sarcophagus and that was then completely filled with honey. The Greeks believed honey would keep his body preserved forever. Then the whole thing was put inside a solid gold casket. He went into death as surrounded in gold as he was in life.


So, Greece has a lot of gold. They didn’t just make coins or lock it up in a bank. Like the ancient Egyptians, the Ancient Greeks associated gold with their gods. They believed their gods wore togas of gold and golden crowns. Gold also features prominently in many Greek myths, like King M


idas and the golden touch, Jason and the golden fleece and the Golden apples of Hesperidin’s. To honor the divine nature of the un-tarnishing yellow metal, the Greeks used gold to make valuable, beautiful objects to be displayed and enjoyed. One artifact was discovered in a most unusual way… in 2016 an elderly British man grabbed a cardboard box of trinkets from under his bed and took it to an appraisal and auction house called Dukes of Dorchester. The man’s grandfather had left him the box of odds and ends, and he wanted to see if there were any items of value. Boy, was there. From inside the beat-up box, the appraiser was astounded to find a 2,300-year-old Greek crown made of 24 karat pure gold. The crown was a floral myrtle wreath design about 8 inches across and weighing in at approximately 100 grams. The Ancient Greeks wore myrtle crowns during religious festivals or for winners of athletic competitions. Was this crown from a high-ranking priest? Maybe it adorned the head of one of the first Olympic winners. Alas, we will never know. The man had no idea where his grandfather had found the gold crown. However, archeologists do have an idea where the crown has been… most likely a tomb… because nestled in the creases of the crown, was ancient dirt.


*music*



One of the things I appreciate about the golden artifacts from Ancient Egypt and the Mediterranean is that for the most part in present-day the artifacts exist intact, safe in museums, or if they are archived- they are high resolution photographed and the images are online and in reference books. Basically, I’m glad we can see them, not just read a few written historical accounts as our only visualization. The Egyptian tomb artifacts do the best job of allowing us a detailed peek into the past- see how people dressed, golden shoes, the jewelry, the headpieces, how they adorned their temples and homes. In our modern world, we don’t DO burial on even a t


enth of the scale of the ancient peoples. Yes, some people do go into their graves wearing perhaps some jewelry, or with a small meaningful physical object, but truly, we practice inheritance now. Passing our gold and silver on into the hands of the living so it can keep being enjoyed and cherished. The side effect is humans no longer create time capsules with their graves; immortalizing the valued objects from one specific point in time. Well- we do, I guess, they’re called museums. Or I guess, your Instagram feed. But in terms of the small precious objects… jewelry… your grandmother’s gold necklace, an aunt’s silver ring, your father’s weddin


g band- the past blends with the present. The jewelry get to live many lives imbued with more and more history and memory as the years go on. I love jewelry for it’s ability to continue to matter- even if a personal owner relinquishes a piece- people scour estate sales, vintage shops, flea markets, eBay, Etsy to find gold and silver pieces. Then the jewelry gets a new keeper and it’s life begins anew.


*music*



Well, that closes out the first episode of our series, “A Casual History of Gold.” I hope you have gotten hooked on thinking about gold and it’s intriguing connection to history. This beautiful, moldable, workable metal that was born in the galaxies above us- that just blows my mind. The thought that my gold wedding band I wear all the time quite possibly came from a star supernova a gajillion light years away will never not be really, really cool haha. The earliest of humans discovered gold just existing in it’s perfect yellow state and so many different cultures instantly attributed a divine nature to the metal. Like, it was too amazing to be anything other than heavenly.


We will see in the next episode how that reverence of gold… and mankind’s insatiable desire to possess it, led to a rapid vast expansion of some cultures… and the utter annihilation of others. I hope you’ll tune in. Check out Tea & Gemstone’s Instagram page to connect and let me know your thoughts on the series so far. The show notes contain a link to our website which has full transcripts of episodes and our bibliography. Our theme song is by Joseph McDade. I am Jen, and it has been a pleasure being your host, and until next time, Stay Sparkly.


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EPISODE 007


Hello, hello everyone. Welcome, come on in. This is Tea & Gemstones, your podcast home for anything and everything to do with jewelry and sparkle. We might talk about the science of a gemstone’s color, new designs hitting the Instagram feeds, what’s on the latest red carpet, or the history of epic royal jewels. To take you on all these auditory explorations is me, your host, Jen. I am a lifelong sparkle enthusiast who loves to dig deep on topics and entertainingly overexplain. Today’s episode is a collision of the psychology of shapes mixed with the history of gemstone design. So, let’s get started.


*music*


Humans have been creating personal talismans of jewelry for over one hundred thousand years. It is how we outwardly display our identity to others, connect to memories, embolden ourselves with strength and happiness. And I humbly submit that there is no piece of jewelry more infused with meaning, than an engagement ring. An engagement ring displays a couple’s dedication and love to each other… but c’mon… besides that wonderful stuff- the engagement ring design is an incredibly intimate choice, reflecting the personality of the bride (and sometimes the groom too) for the whole world to see.


Nowadays there are infinite choices for tailoring an engagement ring to convey the exact vibe a couple desires. But let’s backtrack through history to see… has it always been this way? What where the first engagement ring shaped like?

Well, the first recorded giving of rings to symbolize a commitment to marriage was the Romans. They had the lovely custom of giving women gold bands with little keys attached to them to symbolize the man’s ownership over her. Might be a problematic statement to make in modern times, but I suppose romance was different back then. Our first diamond engagement ring enters the history books in 1477, when Archduke Maximillian of Austria publicly proposed to Mary of Burgundy in front his court in Vienna. The proposal was documented in multiple writings and a couple paintings… the 15th century equivalent of celebrities having their engagement photos splashed in a magazine. This first ring is pretty simple, it’s a textured yellow gold band with a round-ish white diamond set in a thick gold square setting. Following Max & Mary’s engagement, diamond engagement rings took off in popularity, all the way through to today… with modern day diamond supply companies like De Beers stoking the flames of desire with ad campaigns like “a diamond is forever”.


So, you want a diamond engagement ring. That beautiful, glimmering, glittering rock on your finger to accompany you through literally everything you do in life… save showering and sleeping. What shape and design do you want resting so glamorously on your finger? Well, humans love to customize everything… and diamonds come in a wonderful plethora of shapes. Let’s talk about them and maybe you’ll discover the shape that speaks to your sparkly soul.


The very first diamond engagement ring showcased a round cut diamond. And the round cut has reigned supreme as the top stone choice ever since. Probably because the round cut is perfectly designed for maximum diamond sparkle… and well, people really like that, haha. The round brilliant design was created in 1919 by a gemologist and mathematician named Marcel Tolkowsky. He actually presented his 58-facet round design for a diamond as his thesis for his phD. Facets are the little cuts all over a diamond that give it its shape and sparkle. The way facets are arranged on a stone make the shape and change the way the stone reflects light, aka how much the diamond will sparkle. Usually, more facets mean more sparkle. The round cut has 58 facets placed around the circle to make the diamond glitter beautifully. But cutting a rough diamond into a circle shape means a lot of the stone gets wasted, cutting it away to make it nice and round. Because of this, round diamonds are some of the most expensive. That doesn’t deter people from buying them… as of 2015, a whopping 75% of all diamond jewelry featured a round brilliant cut. It is classic, traditional, never goes out of style… circles symbolize eternity, never-ending- perfect for love and a marriage. But don’t be bored… The round diamond is not so simple and basic as it may seem. There are several interesting variations on the classic circle. The first of the round cut diamonds were called Old European Cuts. This harkens back to before about 1930, when diamonds were cut by hand. The facets were less precisely placed, and could be chunkier, variable, artistic, carrying the mark of being sort of… homemade. These antique cut stones are now highly prized and can fetch an even heftier price tag than their modern ‘perfect’ equivalents due to their history and individual uniqueness. No two old European cut diamonds are exactly alike, they’re beloved for their un-perfectness. Speaking of perfection in a round cut… if your personality strives for a mix of classical traditionalism and engineered excellence, you might choose a “Hearts & Arrows” round cut. Hearts and Arrow is an ultra-precise way to cut a round diamond. The cut was created in Japan in the 1980s. This cut requires special tools to allow the gem cutter to create the optical design, the facets are cut in such a way that when you look down at the diamond from the top, you see eight symmetrical arrows. When you look up through the bottom of the diamond, you see eight symmetrical hearts. Hearts and Arrows can cost up to three times more than a standard round diamond due to the time and skill required to cut them. Less than 1% of diamonds are Hearts and Arrows. But you want to make your classic traditional round diamond have a little extra somethin’-somethin’, you would be rarified company to own a Hearts and Arrows.


The second most popular diamond shape is what I consider the classic opposite of a circle, it’s a square. More specifically it is called a “square modified brilliant”, but you probably know it by it’s more fun nickname, the princess cut. The a less refined version of the princess cut was around starting in the 1960s, but this glittering square really took off in the 1980s. In 1971 two different gem cutters registered new square diamond designs calling them the “barion” and the “profile”, respectively. In 1979 a collaborative group of gem cutters registered the “quadrillion” cut. The name was a mouthful, and it quickly adopted the princess nickname because the shape was deemed “fit for a princess.” These sparkly inverted pyramids have a range of 50 to 58 facets and they are for a modern woman who loves to have a little twist on a classic while still staying traditional. Plenty of women have been entranced by the princess cut’s four sharp corners and high refraction rate, in 2015 it was estimated that about 25 to 30% of engagement rings feature a princess cut diamond. A great selling point for princess cuts is the price tag… rather… they carry a much smaller cost than the ever popular rounds. This is because gem cutters can get more bang for their buck out of a rough stone by making it square… think about it… if a princess cut were to become a round, you’d have to lop off those corners- that’s waste, bits of diamond just gone in order to get a circle. A good price comparison is you can get a 1 carat princess for the cost of an eighth of a carat round. So, if you want a good amount of bling on a budget, this princess is for you.


The third most popular diamond is a shape with it’s roots deep in history, and it’s future is on the rise. At the intersection of where old meets new, is the cushion cut diamond. The soft, pillowy cushion cut we see today on the fingers of celebrities like Kim Kardashian West, Sofia Vergara, Gabrielle Union and Meghan Markle, owes it’s creation to a much older shape… the Old Mine cut. Back in the 1700s when there was a lot of diamond mining happening in Brazil, the gem cutters of that time were looking for best cut to maximize the sparkle from a rough diamond without losing too much of the precious material. The Old Mine cut is what they landed on. These hand-cut stones are such a favorite of mine- they are full of personality. Nothing about them is uniform, they have a square-ish, rectangle-ish shape with rounded corners and while it has 58 facets like a modern round… the facets are much larger, giving these stones more of a candlelight flash rather than a glittering disco ball vibe. The Hope Diamond is an old mine cut cushion. I love these stones. They are romantic and beautiful and were the most popular shape until the round brilliant came on the scene. The old mine cut faded out of use. People wanted the big-time sparkle and bling that other cuts could bring to their fingers. But in the 1980s and 1980s, gem cutters went back to the old mine cut design and approached it with modern technology, and lo and behold, the modern cushion cut was born. The softness of the rounded rectangle shape appeals to whimsy and love, with it’s long sides speaking to structure and feeling safe and secure. A perfect stone to represent love. Besides it’s gorgeous shape, cushion cuts carry another layer of appeal… they’re considered affordable. A one carat cushion cut diamond will cost about 25% less than a one carat round diamond because of you guessed it- cutting waste. The old mine cut was designed to maximize yield from a stone, and the modern cushion cut is no different. It’s beauty with a reasonable price tag, no wonder it’s zooming up the popularity ladder. Last records state about 8% of engagement rings feature a cushion cut. But mark my words, you heard it here- princess cuts better watch out. The cushion is cruising for a top spot.


Round, princess, and cushion solidly dominate the diamond shape world. They make up about 90% of all engagement rings. But diamond come in so many additional amazing cuts. The other 10% of engagement rings are having fun with a veritable playground of designs. I’m going to list as many as I can find because even their names are just great. Check out this line-up: emerald, oval, pear, asscher, marquise, radiant, heart, Portuguese, trilliant, baguette, aspery, the eighty-eight, Ashoka, jubilee, crisscut, lily, rose, portrait and bead. I mean, …whew! 3 diamond shapes make up 90%. We have 19 other shapes crowding up the remaining 10%. This also isn’t a conclusive list, there are several other really, realllly obscure shapes and some shapes that are officially branded to a gem cutting house so they aren’t really publicly available. But let’s talk about these cutss; they have amazing unique qualities. Let’s do a quick hit list of some of these rare shapes and their personalities.


You wouldn’t think with the long, elegant rectangles of the emerald cut diamond sitting on famous fingers like Beyonce, Amal Clooney, and Angelina Jolie that emeralds are a rare cut… but the estimates place emerald cuts on less than 3% of engagement rings. This sophisticated step cut was originally not designed for diamonds, it was for… as the name states, emeralds. Oh emeralds. This tricky soft green gemstone has an annoying tendency to break and fracture when it is cut. The emerald cut, with it’s long straight lines down the sides was designed to minimize breakage for the fickle greenies. In the 1920s with the art deco design boom, gem cutters turned the emerald cut pattern on diamonds, and a classic was born. Emeralds are a different breed than rounds, princesses or cushions; they don’t capitalize on sparkle- the long lines in them create more of a ‘flash’, a gorgeous ‘hall of mirrors’ effect when you gaze into them. Because of their wide-open top without cut lines, these nicknamed ‘ice rinks’ need a high clarity rating so you don’t peer down into them and see a blemish marring your great view. But don’t fear needing a high clarity driving up your stone price… because of the economical long cuts, emerald diamonds, like a cushion, cost about 25% less than an equivalent round.


So. Perhaps you quite like the idea of strong powerful rectangle. But the clear windows of the emerald cut don’t satisfy that innate human desire for sparkle. Well, let me introduce you to a personal favorite of mine… the radiant cut. I firmly believe the radiant cut is one of those best of all world’s cuts. In terms of historical cuts, the radiant is a newbie. It was created in 1977 by a master gem cutter named Henry Grossbard. Henry challenged himself to create a cut that quote “would unleash the full potential of a diamond’s brilliance” unquote. The result is an amazing 70 facet long rectangle with provocative clipped corners. Remember, every facet is an additional chance for sparkle. Rounds, princess, cushions, emeralds and ovals have about 58 facets. So radiants have 20% more glitter packed into their rectangle shape. Radiants are for women who embrace symmetry and balance, and also inner fire. Basically… radiants combine the sparkle and dazzle of a round with the elongating elegance of an emerald. If I’m waxing poetic about radiants, it’s because I just love them so much. The first radiant cut diamond I ever saw was Jennifer Lopez’s 6 carat pink Harry Winston engagement ring from Ben Affleck. I had a subscription to People magazine, and they did a feature on it. I remember tearing it out and keeping the picture in my locker at school in 2002; I was in 7th grade. But 19 years later, my husband made my radiant cut dreams come true, my 10th anniversary ring features a radiant moissanite. I highly recommend.


Let’s transition from the bold, confident rectangle. What shape do you think makes you feel soft, yet strong? One thing that stood out to me when I was researching was this shape is stated to create a feeling of friendly completeness. Isn’t that a lovely phrase? Friendly completeness. Well, this feminine happy shape is the oval. I love the story of how the modern oval cut came to be. A Russian born gem cutter named Lazare Kaplan had been cutting diamonds since he was 13. He had a reputation for taking diamonds that were deemed worthless because of their internal flaws and he would find ways to cleave and cut them to make them beautiful and sparkling. In 1957 he turned his creative talents to perfecting an oval shaped diamond that would ‘face up’ larger than an equivalent round- that means a one carat diamond will look more like a one and quarter sized stone. The oval’s 58 facets stretch elegantly down your finger, giving you tremendous visual bang for your buck. Recently some designers are modernizing the oval cut further by setting the stone ‘east-west’ that is horizontally instead of vertically. You can do this with emerald or radiant cuts as well for a fun, unconventional personal customization. Anyway, the oval is a lovely, sophisticated shape. It does have one red flag to watch out for… except it isn’t a red flag, it’s a black bow tie. Sometimes poorly cut oval diamonds can exhibit well, a literal black bow tie effect inside themselves when you look down at them. Not ideal… so be cautious ordering an oval stone off the internet… they are worth seeing in person to make sure it’s not accidentally tuxedo casual with an unintended bow tie.


Maybe you like the oblong shape, but the oval is just too soft for you, too gentle. You want that extended glamour down your finger but with a little more edge and drama. Well… I’d like you to meet the sexy marquise cut. You might think a diamond shape with nicknames like ‘the football’, or ‘navette’, which is French for ‘little ship’ or get this… some call it the canoe cut haha so maybe this cut wouldn’t have a sexy origin story… but it does! It has to do with King Louis the 15th of France… remember him? He is the king we talk about back in episode 3 of Tea & Gemstones- The Affair of the Diamond Necklace. This king liked his ladies… he had a bunch of mistresses at different times. And in the 18th century he commissioned his royal jeweler to design a diamond shape that looked like the lips of his girlfriend. And viola, the marquise shape was born, named after his mistress’ title in French court. It is a sparkly 58 faceted elliptical shape with pointy ends. It is traditionally set vertically, but it can be stunning set on it’s side. Google movie star Catherine Zeta-Jones’ engagement ring- it is an amazing ten carat marquise diamond set ‘east-west.’ The marquise has a really neat trick- it faces up larger than any other diamond shape. Because of it’s long slender shape, it has a huge surface area without a lot of wasted carat weight on the bottom where no one can see it. For example, a three quarters of a carat well-proportioned marquise can look as big as one carat. However, it’s not without one drawback… like the oval, a marquise can sometimes wear an unplanned bow tie, but other than that- this is one sexy sparkly football shaped diamond that is worth consideration.


But perhaps the double pointed marquise is a little too bold for your liking, but the idea of a sharp sexy point intrigues you. Well, there is a shape that blends together the classic traditional softness of a round with the seduction of the marquise… and that shape is the juicy pear. You might think this teardrop is a modern creation, but the pear is actually one of the oldest diamond cuts. It was created in 1475 by a Belgium gem cutter named Lodewyk van Bercken. Lodewyk actually revolutionized the diamond world by inventing the modern diamond polishing wheel. His design used a polishing wheel coated with olive oil and diamond dust that allowed all facets of a diamond to be polish evenly. This new tool allowed for a boom in diamond cut design, but Lodewyk used his invention to create the 58-facet pear cut; the first diamond cut to introduce the concept of absolute symmetry. The glittering teardrop was an instant success. Some of the most famous diamonds are pear cuts. Elizabeth Taylor was gifted a 69-carat pear diamond necklace from her husband Richard Burton, and she flaunted the necklace all over the world, like to Princess Grace of Monaco’s birthday party and to the 42nd Academy Awards. In fact, the largest cut diamond in existence is a pear; the Great Star of Africa. It’s an epically huge stone weighting in at 530 carats and valued at $450 million dollars. Big or dainty, pear-shaped diamonds are a highly personal preference, because of their design they can be pudgier and more rounded, or more lean and long. Picking the right pear stone for you definitely means there is no right or wrong, only what yummy pear version you personally are drawn too.


As the pear plays off being a combo of the marquise and the round, the radiant and oval mix qualities of cushion, emerald and princess… there is a diamond shape that stands totally apart… and that is the asscher. The asscher I suppose you can say is a blend of the square princess and the step-cut long facets of the emerald. But really the asscher is it’s own category. It is technically a square shape, but it does not have the sharp corners of a princess, the asscher’s corners are cropped, giving it it’s trademark octagonal shape. The cropped corners also allow more light to enter the stone. This shape’s moniker comes from it’s maker… a mister Joseph Asscher. He had founded his diamond cutting company in 1854 in Amsterdam. Mr. Asscher was very, very good at his job. He is actually the one who cut the Great Star of Africa I just mentioned. Well, in 1902 Joseph Asscher designed his special 58 facet octagonal diamond shape and then he did something no gem cutter had ever done before… he patented his design. That meant that no one else could legally cut a diamond into his asscher shape. When the roaring 1920s came around about two decades later, the asscher diamond was embraced as the art deco jewel of the era. The 1920s were a shift away from tradition and the geometric and modern lines of the asscher were right on trend. The asscher company’s patent expired after World War II, opening up the design for any gem cutter. However, the complex design is notoriously difficult to execute well, making the asscher a very rare cut to see just sitting out in a jewelry display case. But I hope you get the chance to see an asscher diamond one day in person; they are so charming. Rather than a disco ball of tiny sparkles, the asscher treats you to large flashes of clean white light. Gazing down into a well down asscher diamond is like falling to a hall of mirrors. But get this… so the original asscher diamond has the standard 58 facets. Well, Joseph Asscher’s great-grandsons, who work at his still thriving company- in 2001 to celebrate one hundred years of the asscher cut, his descendants released a brand new asscher cut, this time with a staggering 74 facets within the octagon. When the design was released, people were stunned. The company named the cut, the Royal Asscher, and it is described as infinite mirrored pool of diamond. I haven’t seen a royal asscher in person, but it’s on my list. So, if you’re thinking of purchasing a pendant, ring, earrings… consider an asscher. This architectural diamond lends itself to those who crave balance and structure yet are creative and romantic.


Okay, well… those nine shapes are your foundation of diamond design. Round, princess, cushion, emerald, radiant, oval, marquise, pear and asscher. Granted, yes- there are so many more and honestly, the more obscure and random they get the more interesting I find them, haha


Take for instance the 88 cut. It draws inspiration from Asian culture which considers 8 a lucky number. This octagon design has 88 facets creating a swirly sparkle effect inside the stone.


If sparkle is your end all be all goal, you have to consider a Portuguese cut diamond. It has a truly amazing 161 facets. This cut is performed on deep round stones that have the surface area to yield all those 161 little sparkly slices. The end result is a veritable disco ball, some people call Portuguese diamonds, “kaleidoscopic flowers.”


If Portuguese is all sparkle, then portrait diamonds are the complete opposite. A portrait cut diamond is cutting a slice of diamond entirely flat without any facets at all. It is called “portrait” because in India they used to put the clear diamond slices over tiny painted portraits of loved ones on rings. Movie star Rooney Mara’s 2019 engagement ring from Joaquin Phoenix is a hexagon portrait diamond.


Since I have such a fondness for rectangle diamonds, the last cut I want to mention is the ultra-exclusive Ashoka cut. The Ashoka is a cushion-emerald hybrid cut with a exceptional 62 facet design. The special facet layout requires a large clear stone. Not many diamonds meet the requirements to receive an Ashoka cut. Get this… the minimum requirements for the cut is a diamond that is three carats of larger and internally flawless. But oh, oh how it’s worth it; the stunning vertical pattern of the Ashoka is like nothing else. And this cut allows a diamond to face up almost 50% larger than an equivalent emerald or radiant. If you want to google and oogle a famous Ashoka, check out Reese Witherspoon, she’s lucky enough to sport a 4 carat Ashoka.


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Okay… I think it has accurately come across how much of a passion of mine gemstone shapes are. But yall… I love how gem cutting marries together creativity and science. I imagine the gem cutters, sitting in their workshops either hundreds of years ago or just a few decades past, and examining rough diamond stones and contemplating what shapes they could create, and the math and technical skill required to bring the artistic vision to reality.


Sometimes it makes me a little sad all these centuries of creativity and science and experimentation have ultimately just ended up in a world where 75% of people chose a white circle. Now… I understand the appeal of a round cut diamond; I do. They sparkle. They’re classic. A circle is a lovely symbol of eternity and never-ending love. But… I mean, for me, personally, I am in love with the idea of making a choice so much more personal and fine-tuned. But the beautiful thing about an engagement ring is it is one for one person. It does not have to please a crowd or match a trendy vibe. It is a beautiful, exclusive, utterly meaningful piece of jewelry to honor a commitment between two people. It should be exactly what you want. And the amazing thing about diamonds is there are so many shape choices out there, you can find exactly what sings to your soul.


I know I talked about all these shapes in the context of engagement rings, but diamonds are not locked into only applying to a proposal. You can buy a “just because I love it” ring for any of the other nine fingers on your hand. How about a diamond pendant necklace? Or some amazing earrings in a pear teardrop, or a princess cut tennis bracelet? Diamonds are for everyone, and for every day. Life is an occasion. Surround yourself with beautiful gems that reflect your personality and what you love. I mean, these shapes can be applied to most other gemstones, not just diamonds. Hello, emerald cut? Looks amazing on actual emeralds, haha. You can have a radiant cut sapphire, a pear cut topaz, a marquise aquamarine. Find the shape you love and get it in every color. Or find the color you love and get it in every shape!


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That’s all for this episode of Tea & Gemstones. I hope you have thought more about how shapes make you feel than ever before, haha I honestly do hope you have an opinion… if you didn’t before, I hope you have one now! Head over to Tea & Gemstones on Instagram and comment on the show post and let me know what shape is your favorite… or not so favorite. Check out our show notes for a link to our website and the bibliography. Our website also hosts full transcripts for every episode if you want to go back and read through any episodes instead of listen. Our theme song is by Joseph McDade and I, Jen, have been your enthusiastic host. Already everyone, until next time… stay sparkly.






T&S DIAMOND SHAPES 101

BIBLIOGRAPHY


American Gem Society. “History of Engagement Rings | Discover the Diamond Engagement Rings History & Traditions.” American Gem Society, 14 May 2021, www.americangemsociety.org/buying-diamonds-with-confidence/the-history-of-the-diamond-as-an-engagement-ring.


“Ashoka-Cut Diamonds: The Complete Guide.” Brides, 15 June 2021, www.brides.com/ashoka-cut-diamonds-4801849#:%7E:text=The%20Ashoka%20cut%20is%20a,rectangular%20shape%20and%20rounded%20corners.&text=Ashoka%20cut%20diamonds%20are%20exceedingly,in%20size%20and%20essentially%20flawless%20.


Beyond 4Cs. “The Top 4 Most Famous Pear Shaped Diamonds in the World.” Beyond 4Cs, 25 June 2019, beyond4cs.com/shapes/pear/famous-pear-shaped-diamonds.


Diamond, All. “The First Diamond Engagement Ring? The Story of Maximilian I and Mary of Burgundy.” All Diamond, 9 Feb. 2021, www.ehudlaniado.com/home/index.php/news/entry/the-first-diamond-engagement-ring-the-story-of-maximilian-i-and-mary-of-burgundy.


“Diamond Shape, Outline & Appearance: Everything to Know.” Grav, 4 June 2021, www.withclarity.com/education/diamond-education/diamond-shape.


“Eighty-Eighty Diamond Shape | Diamond Source of Virginia.” Diamond Source, www.diamondsourceva.com/education/shape/diamonds-shape-eighty-eighty.asp. Accessed 8 Nov. 2021.


Fasel, Marion. “The Year of Smallish Celebrity Engagement Rings | The Adventurine.” The Adventurine, theadventurine.com/bridal/engagement-rings/the-year-of-smallish-celebrity-engagement-rings. Accessed 8 Nov. 2021.


Glovory Design. “Psychology of Shapes in Design: How Different Shapes Can Affect People Behaviour.” Medium, 15 Apr. 2021, uxdesign.cc/psychology-of-shapes-in-design-how-different-shapes-can-affect-people-behavior-13cace04ce1e.


International Gem Society LLC. “The History of Cushion Cut Diamonds.” International Gem Society, 9 Sept. 2021, www.gemsociety.org/article/history-cushion-cut-diamonds.


Jonathon. “The History of the Marquise-Cut Diamond.” The Brilliance.Com Blog, 14 May 2020, blog.brilliance.com/diamonds/the-history-of-the-marquise-cut-diamond.


---. “The History of the Oval Diamond Ring.” The Brilliance.Com Blog, 14 May 2020, blog.brilliance.com/diamonds/the-history-of-the-oval-diamond-ring.


---. “The History of the Radiant Diamond Cut.” The Brilliance.Com Blog, 14 May 2020, blog.brilliance.com/diamonds/the-history-of-the-radiant-diamond-cut.


“The Meaning of Princess Cut Diamond.” Leibish, 7 Sept. 2017, www.leibish.com/the-meaning-of-princess-cut-diamond-article-1481.


Sharon. “Marcel Tolkowsky, The Man Behind the Round Brilliant Diamond Cut.” The Brilliance.Com Blog, 17 July 2020, blog.brilliance.com/diamonds/marcel-tolkowsky-brilliant-round-cut-diamond-inventor.

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